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Autumn
in the Garden 1. Water - If it is a dry fall, continue watering trees, shrubs and perennials once a week until the ground freezes (end of October to mid-November). A slow, thorough watering is best. The plants will lose their leaves, but the roots will continue to grow in 40 degree temperatures. Moist soil also acts as a buffer against changes in soil temperature. 2. Mulch - Gardeners are advised to use mulch around plants to keep weeds down and to hold moisture during the growing season. To provide winter protection, mulch may be used to cover plants after the soil is cold, about the end of October. Its purpose is to protect plant roots from the periodic freeze and thaw cycles that can cause damage. Mulch keeps the roots uniformly cold. Dry leaves, straw or shredded bark may be used. A deep snow cover is Nature’s best insulator. Shovel it onto your beds. 3. Clean up - If disease or pests were problems on any shrubs, trees, perennials or roses during the growing season, remove dead leaves and debris around the affected plants and haul the material to the dumpster. 4. Condition Soil - If you plan to start a new garden in the spring, prepare the soil now by adding peat moss and organic matter. If you have clay soil, add lots of coarse organic matter. Do not rely on peat moss alone to condition your soil. Gypsum or a commercial soil conditioner may also be used in clay soil. In an established garden, fall is a good time to evaluate soil condition and add amendments for strong spring growth. Do not add nitrogen fertilizer to established plantings in the fall. An application of fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium, however, may help the plant prepare for winter.
Let’s Get Specific
Perennials
- Older, established perennials may require division. Spring and early
summer bloomers should be divided in the fall. Save the job for spring
if the plants are late summer or fall bloomers. If the plants have been healthy during the growing season, leave the tops for winter interest and to catch snow. Cut the dead material back to ground level in the spring before the plants leaf out. If disease has been a problem, cut the plant back to 2-3" from the ground and remove all debris around the plant before applying mulch. In late fall when the soil is cold, cover perennials with a 2-3" layer of airy, dry mulch such as leaves, straw or shredded bark. Try to avoid using leaves from diseased plants.
Since roses are often prone to mold and fungal diseases, clean up debris around the plants and apply fungicides in the fall. Shrub roses that are hardy in Zone 3 should be mulched (about 3") in preparation for their first winter. After that they can take care of themselves. Tender roses require special care. Shortly after October 15th, mound 6-8" of additional soil at the base of the plant for insulation. A chicken wire collar or a foam cone may be used to hold additional straw or leaves. Choose a cone that has a removable top or ventilation holes to avoid mold. An alternative to the use of a cone or collar is to tie the canes together and then pile garbage bags filled with leaves around the shrub. Do allow some space for air circulation. Save pruning chores until early spring. Your plants are busy in the fall storing energy in the canes and root system. Avoid pruning Harrison’s Yellow and Therese Bugnet until after the spring bloom.
If necessary, fall bloomers may be pruned in the fall after the blooms are spent. As a general rule, however, pruning of shrubs (except spring bloomers) is best done in the spring before the buds break. Fall pruning may result in desiccation during the winter.
Prune maple, birch, honeylocust, elm or walnut trees in late fall to prevent sap flow from cuts. Wrap trunks of young trees with tree wrap or plastic tree protectors to prevent sun scald or frost crack and to prevent injury from rodents or rabbits. Protect the trunk for 2-5 winter seasons, until the tree develops a corky bark. New information suggests that tree wraps should be removed in the spring to allow the bark to toughen. Protect arborvitae from dry winter winds by applying an anti-desiccant containing a waxy resin. Anti-desiccants must be applied when the temperature will be above 40 degrees for a few hours. If temperatures allow, an additional application in mid-winter is helpful. Wrapping the entire tree in burlap is another approach. The most important aid to the plants, however, is adequate moisture before freeze-up. Water well!
Bulbs - Lift dahlia, calla, canna, gladiola and other tender bulbs after frost has blackened the tops and let them sit in the sun for a day or two to dry. Remove dirt and apply fungicide and insecticide to prevent disease and pest problems. Store the bulbs in peat moss or vermiculite and place in paper bags or nylon mesh bags. Store in a cool, dry area (40-50 degrees).
Plant hardy bulbs,
such as tulips, in the fall (September 15 to October 31) for
spring blooms. Lawns - At the end of the season adjust your mower height to 2" and rake up any leaves and debris. Doing so will help prevent spring diseases in the lawn. To eliminate thatch build-up and allow oxygen to penetrate to the roots, aerate the soil. If the soil is compacted, the roots will not grow deeply. Overseed where grass is sparse, or start new lawns, in the fall when temperatures are cool and weeds are less active. To strengthen the grass for winter and produce a strong spring growth, use a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen fertilizers are not helpful to plants in the fall.
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